Osaka. It’s a city that thrives on contradictions—fast and pristine public transit shuttles the masses between modern towers that cast shadows over a rich and complex history that’s seen it all, from the Shogun’s siege to the city’s eventual rebirth.
But I’m not just here for the history. I’m on the hunt for some good eats.
And here, food isn’t just fuel; it’s an explosion of flavor. From crunchy takoyaki covered in a rich umami-driven sauce to the overloaded okonomiyaki underneath the neon glow of Dotonbori, Osaka demands you dig in and savor every chaotic, glorious moment.
And it’s here where I begin my two-and-a-half week trip around the country with stops in ‘Ninja City’ Iga where I learn about the region’s connection to historical ninjas before running in the Ninja Trail Run for my final ultra of the year, Kyoto to meet with an old friend and sample vegan Japanese food between temple treks, and Tokyo to continue the feast before ending with a week in Okinawa.
Landing in Osaka
I arrive in Osaka just in time for lunch, head straight for Playpen Friends and dive right into their tonkotsu ramen with fried tofu, soy meat, wood ear mushrooms, nori seaweed, spring onion, chili threads, and stir-fried veggies. Itaidekimasu, baby. I’m back in Japan.
Then, a quick coffee to keep my jet-lag addled brain firing neurons long enough to make it through the night.
This is Dotonbori, a neon-lit district famous for its cacophony of tourists and locals on the prowl for good drink and good eats. If this doesn’t scream, “You’re in Japan!” I don’t know what does.
After a gyoza snack at the aptly named Gyozah! I make my way to this okonomiyaki spot. I’m a bit intimidated by all of the options. Not to mention the toppings. How much is too much? I don’t know, so I keep piling them on: spinach, potatoes, mushrooms, and so on leading to this delicious behemoth.
If I’m going to Hell, it’s for gluttony.
Osaka Castle and Shōgun
It’s morning in Osaka and I’ve got a race in a few days. So I lace up my kicks for one last, easy jaunt and to help shock my body into Japanese time. After the run, I make like Tokugawa and head over to Osaka Castle –– a reference I only understand because I recently watched Shōgun.
Originally built in 1583 by Toyotomi Hideyoshi, Osaka Castle played a pivotal role in Japan’s unification. After Hideyoshi’s death, his son, Toyotomi Hideyori, took control of the castle, but the Tokugawa shogunate, led by Tokugawa Ieyasu, saw the Toyotomi family as a threat.
This led to the Siege of Osaka in 1614, where the Tokugawa forces destroyed the castle, effectively ending the Toyotomi clan’s reign. In the 1620s, Tokugawa Ieyasu’s successors rebuilt the castle, adding fortifications and strengthening its defenses.
The castle endured further destruction during the Meiji Restoration, and was largely dismantled in 1868 as part of an imperial effort to abandon symbols of feudal Japan and the shogunate.
I don’t get why… I mean, did they even see Shōgun!? It’s so cool!
Osaka Castle was eventually reconstructed in the 1930s with reinforced concrete, becoming a symbol of national pride and modernization. Today, it stands as a historic landmark that draws over two million visitors a year.
I Love Japan
Japan is a country that’s tickled my imagination for as long as I can remember.
You see, my mom lived there for a couple of years when she was a kid and loved it. In fact, a little Japanese stuck around in the family. Her father called her ‘musume’ 娘 or daughter.
But my love for Japan was cemented nine years ago when I finally got to go for the first time. I trotted around castle grounds, hiked through postal towns along the Nakasendo Way, and marveled at the organized chaos that is Tokyo.
One of the last things my mom told me was that Japan was her favorite place in the world and that she wished she could’ve gone back. I wish I could’ve given her that opportunity.
Though this trip is just getting started, I can already tell that my love of Japan, kindled by her, wasn’t some fleeting romance. I can feel it in my bones once again that one way or another, this place will be important to me for the rest of my life. And I know that’s in large part because of Mom.
So I hope in some small, schmaltzy way that would definitely make her eyes roll, I’m carrying her with me on this and future trips to Japan.
Love ya, Ma (pic of us dancing) and see ya in Iga.
Osaka, Japan travel guide
Now let’s dive into planning your trip to Osaka.
Where is Osaka?
Osaka is Japan’s third-largest city, located on Honshu Island in the Kansai region. Known as Japan’s “Kitchen” for its vibrant culinary scene, Osaka blends historic landmarks, modern architecture, and bustling entertainment districts. It’s a major hub for culture, business, and tourism, conveniently situated near Kyoto and Nara.
How to get to Osaka
Osaka is served by two airports: Kansai International Airport (KIX) and Osaka Itami Airport (ITM). KIX handles most international flights, with direct rail connections via the Kansai Airport Express. ITM caters to domestic flights and is connected by monorail and trains. Osaka’s extensive public transportation network includes the JR Osaka Loop Line, subways, and buses for easy city navigation. The Nakai-Limited Express will get you from the airport to Osaka-Namba station in 35 minutes for ¥1,490 (about 9 euros or dollars) and the Nakai-Kuko Line does it in 46 minutes for ¥970 (roughly 6 euros or dollars).
Best time of year to visit Osaka
The best time to visit Osaka is spring (March–May) and autumn (October–November). In spring, cherry blossoms bloom, particularly around Osaka Castle and Kema Sakuranomiya Park. Autumn offers mild weather and stunning fall foliage. Summer can be hot and humid but features lively festivals, while winter, though quieter, has festive illuminations and milder temperatures compared to northern Japan.
Things to do in Osaka
Osaka offers a rich mix of history, entertainment, and culinary delights. Visit iconic landmarks like Osaka Castle and immerse yourself in the neon-lit streets of Dotonbori. For family fun, explore Universal Studios Japan. Shoppers can indulge in Shinsaibashi and Namba, while foodies will adore Kuromon Market.
Osaka Castle
A symbol of Osaka, this historic castle is surrounded by a scenic park filled with cherry blossoms in spring. Visitors can tour the castle museum, which showcases Osaka’s rich history, and enjoy panoramic views from the observation deck. The castle grounds are perfect for leisurely walks year-round.
Dotonbori
Osaka’s vibrant entertainment district is known for its neon lights, giant billboards, and iconic Glico Man sign. Sample street food like takoyaki and okonomiyaki, and take a river cruise for a unique perspective of the bustling area. Dotonbori is a sensory feast and a nightlife hotspot.
Restaurants in Osaka
Osaka’s vegetarian and vegan dining scene is thriving, offering diverse plant-based options. From hearty ramen to creative takes on Japanese classics, there’s something for every palate.
MERCY Vegan Factory
This cozy café offers a variety of vegan dishes, from nourishing bowls to decadent desserts. It’s an excellent spot for health-conscious diners seeking wholesome, flavorful meals in a relaxed setting. I got the vegan gimbap with deep-fried kurumafu and can highly recommend it.
OKO – Fun Okonomiyaki Bar
Specializing in vegan okonomiyaki (savory Japanese-style pancakes, for lack of a better description), OKO offers a plant-based twist on this Osaka staple. You have the option of adding a variety of toppings to your okonomiyaki (spinach, mushrooms, etc.) and they’ll ask if you want the vegan mayo since the restaurant isn’t strictly vegan or vegetarian, but rather vegan and vegetarian friendly.
Pivot BASE Cafe & Bar ＠Dotonbori
A chic spot in Dotonbori serving creative vegan cuisine and drinks. Takoyaki is traditionally made with octopus. But here, you can get the vegan variety made with (I think!) mushrooms and tofu.
Gyozaoh! Dotonbori
This gyoza joint includes vegan-friendly options alongside its traditional menu. The plant-based gyoza are a hit with diners seeking a meat-free twist on a Japanese favorite.
LiLo Coffee Roasters
A trendy café near Shinsaibashi that’s great for a mid-day boost.
Vegan Ramen by Playpen Friends
This ramen spot is beloved for its rich, flavorful vegan broths and creative toppings, making it a must-visit for ramen enthusiasts. The tonkotsu ramen is a wildly satisfying way to start your trip to Osaka.
Hotels in Osaka
I stayed at APA Hotel Nambashinsaibashi-Nishi. APA is a chain of affordable hotels in Japan. Unfortunately, I later learned that the owner is a Holocaust denier and generally a right-winged extremist. So I wouldn’t recommend staying there if you can avoid it. But I can recommend staying near Osaka-Namba station for easy access to the city from the airport and back out again.
Below are additional recommendations based on research.
The St. Regis Osaka
This luxury hotel features elegant rooms, personalized service, and a prime location on Midosuji Boulevard. Its rooftop terrace and renowned dining options make it an indulgent choice for travelers.
Cross Hotel Osaka
Situated near Dotonbori, this stylish hotel offers spacious, modern rooms and easy access to Osaka’s top attractions. It’s ideal for visitors wanting convenience and comfort.
Osaka Excel Hotel Tokyu
This contemporary hotel boasts stylish interiors and a rooftop bar with panoramic city views. Its location near the vibrant Namba area is perfect for exploring.
Hotel Monterey Grasmere Osaka
With its charming European-inspired design, this hotel offers comfortable rooms and direct access to Namba Station. Its central location is great for sightseeing and shopping.
Zentis Osaka
A chic boutique hotel featuring modern design, spacious rooms, and a cozy on-site café. Located in Kita, it’s a serene base for exploring Osaka’s bustling cityscape.
